Written by
Sigvor D. Mala
Arctic nature guide, adventurer, social-worker and photographer.
Has worked as a guide on Svalbard and the mainland for several years. Passionate about long cross-country trips in the wild, knows Svalbard like the back of her hand, and has a solid expedition CV. Happiest with frost in her hair, cold fingers and a white landscape before her.
Photo: Jon Hunnålvatn Tøn
Photo: Sigvor D. Mala
March, around -20° outside. The sun just beginning to return after the long, dark, polar night. Having decided to take the Arctic Nature Guide course this year, I’m about to go on a hike with someone in the class to practice something of what we’ve learned about life outdoors in the winter. In the pulks we pack plenty of food, warm clothes, tents, sleeping bags and burners: everything we need to survive in the winter mountains. What stands out a little in our backyard is the threat of polar bears. That’s why we also have a rifle, a flare gun and trip wires to protect ourselves.
Photo: Sigvor D. Mala
We make our way past Mine 7 (the coal extracted from here provides energy for the whole of Longyearbyen). Then the ascent up the glaciers begins; the weight of the sled is our first challenge. It is bitterly cold. Sweat flows. We are surrounded by magical light. We make our first camp on Fleinisen. Tomorrow we cross the pass and descend to Svelnosbreen, with the new challenges of the steep ascents and descents.
Photo: Sigvor D. Mala
Together we get the pulks up the pass. From there, we must rappel them down to be able to continue on the other side. This is time-consuming – but exciting.
Photo: Sigvor D. Mala
Down safely, we cross over to Kokbreen and start to climb the slopes here. We move into a fantastic landscape with snow-covered mountains and unique light. The snow around us sparkles, we hear a crackling below our skis and life is wonderful.
Photo: Sigvor D. Mala
Halfway up the glacier we set up camp. It’s just the best to get into the tent and fire up the primus for some hot food. The heat spreads through the body while we talk about the exciting day and our cold toes.
Photo: Sigvor D. Mala
We wake up to another day of glorious sunshine. We continue on over the pass and down Drønbreen towards Adventdalen. The sun is shining on us, the slopes offer playful descents and life is smiling. With frost in hair, sun in the eyes, the landscape white as far as the eye can see.
Photo: Sigvor D. Mala
We set up camp at the bottom of the glacier. I’m on polar bear watch tonight. My task for the coming night is to make sure that polar bears don’t enter the camp. We take it in turns, one after the other, so we can sleep safely at night. There’s something wonderful about being up alone, in the middle of the night, seeing the wonderful light in the early morning, enjoying the silence.
Photo: Sigvor D. Mala
We start the return leg, passing through Adventdalen, the next day. On the way we get reports there’ll be precipitation and strong winds in the afternoon. Then it becomes extra important for us to set up a good camp to last out the weather, build windbreaks and prepare for the storm. The temperatures also change drastically, from -20° to a couple of degrees below zero. It really blows. Setting up camp is a real challenge.
Photo: Sigvor D. Mala
After a stormy night, we wake up to rain and wind. The Svalbard idyll has seen better days. It’s at moments like these you can plainly see the enormous changes in the climate changes beginning to become manifest. It is not usual to have plus temperatures and rain in the middle of winter in the high arctic. It should be cold, dry and stable. Adventdalen has become a skating rink with stormwater. As students on the Arctic Nature Guide course, we can only marvel at the climatic changes now so close up here. We feel lucky to have experienced the arctic winters; the cold, white valleys and northern lights.
Text and photos: Sigvor D. Mala
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