{"id":6700,"date":"2022-09-19T14:27:55","date_gmt":"2022-09-19T14:27:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/asnes-academy.com\/uncategorized\/prepping-and-waxing-cross-country-skis-for-the-backcountry-simply\/"},"modified":"2022-12-21T21:09:16","modified_gmt":"2022-12-21T21:09:16","slug":"prepping-and-waxing-cross-country-skis-for-the-backcountry-simply","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/asnes-academy.com\/en\/choose-the-right-gear\/prepping-and-waxing-cross-country-skis-for-the-backcountry-simply\/","title":{"rendered":"Prepping and waxing cross-country skis for the backcountry \u2013 simply"},"content":{"rendered":"\r\n\r\n
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The unbearable weight of getting ski wax right<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nLet’s play Cross-Country Ski Wax Bingo!<\/strong>\u00a0Skis that won\u2019t grip! The Great Easter Klister Disaster (\u201cFirst it\u2019s in the tube. Then it\u2019s on the dog\u201d)! Grip-zone covered with five centimetres of hard ice! Looking enviously at people who remembered to bring their kicker skins!\r\n\r\nThere are, of course, things you can do to prevent wax disasters.\r\n\r\nThe first thing to remember is: a trip to the mountains is not a race.<\/strong> While the Norwegian national cross-country team might select their grip wax after analysing snow in their expensive trailer-laboratory, the solution for the rest of us will be different. The simplest thing is often the best.\r\n\r\nAll we want is something that works.<\/strong> Preferably for a few days. So let\u2019s leave the lab work to the racers and the pros. At \u00c5snes, we know a thing or two about waxing skis for the backcountry, too. Here\u2019s what we know.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Waxing and prepping fjellski:<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Equipment<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nFirst of all \u2013 you don\u2019t need a gigantic Swix suitcase full of unnamable kit. And don\u2019t be intimidated by that wall full of waxing products in the sports shop. We\u2019re going to the mountains, we don\u2019t have a race to win. The one with the biggest smile at the end of the day gets the trophy.\u00a0Your resealable plastic bag with some blue Swix, klister and a cork puts you well on your way. A small selection of waxes, maybe something glidy and a few tools that you\u2019ve learned how to use increases your chance of success.\r\n\r\nTo make the experience of preparation a little easier, we\u2019d like to recommend a little coffee (or something a little more lively) and good music in the background. Conversation and wax discussion is helpful too.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nLet\u2019s discuss gear:<\/strong>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\tSm\u00f8rebord<\/span><\/div>

Kanskje litt voldsomt \u00e5 investere i sm\u00f8rebord, for 2-3 turer i l\u00f8pet av en sesong?
Egentlig ikke. Et sm\u00f8rebord trenger ikke koste mer enn noen hundrelapper, om du kj\u00f8per det brukt. Eventuelt kan du investere i none skitvinger og montere dem p\u00e5 et bord du bygger av en treplate i boden\/kjelleren\/garasjen.
Uansett, s\u00e5 gj\u00f8r et sm\u00f8rebord prosessen mye enklere, morsommere og det kan brukes til prepping av alpinski, sm\u00e5arbeid, snekring og mye annet gjennom hele sesongen.<\/p><\/div><\/div>

\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\tSm\u00f8rejern<\/span><\/div>

Ikke bruk strykejerne til mor, det kan vi med erfaring si at ikke sl\u00e5r godt an. Du f\u00e5r heldigvis kj\u00f8pt helt fine sm\u00f8rejern til 2-300kr. Det er en god investering. Om du skal glide ski eller legge grunnvoks, s\u00e5 trenger du uansett et slikt jern.<\/p><\/div><\/div>

\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\tGrunnvoks<\/span><\/div>

Skal brukes i festesonen, ikke til forveksling med Glider som brukes i glidesonen. Uansett hvor mye man pr\u00f8ver, s\u00e5 vil ikke festevoks sitte godt p\u00e5
Det finnes det mye forskjellig grunnvoks produkter \u00e5 velge mellom, men mye av dette er fokusert p\u00e5 racing og for \u00e5 optimalisere for oppkj\u00f8rte konkurransespor. Det er noe helt annet enn \u00e5 ferdes i fjellet.
Grunnvoks som bindemiddel for racing produkter er nok helt klart effektivt, men det er litt bortkastet penger og tid i fjellet. V\u00e5r anbefaling er \u00e5 bruke en veldig hard festevoks og buffe den som grunnvoks, ekempelvis Swix Polar. Mykere festevoks sitter veldig godt p\u00e5 en hardere festevoks \u2013 det er jo nettopp slik systemet er bygget opp!<\/p><\/div><\/div>

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Velg noen f\u00e5 sikre klassikere, som f.eks Swix Bl\u00e5, Swix Fiolett og Swix R\u00f8d. Det utvalget burde i utgangspunktet holde til det meste.<\/p><\/div><\/div>

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For folk flest, s\u00e5 er det bare \u00e5 styre unna pulver og avanserte varianter. G\u00e5 for enkle varianter som Swix LF6 og LF8. Det holder med disse to variantene. Det er glideren du stryker p\u00e5 skiene med sm\u00f8rejernet og som s\u00f8rger for god glid. Glider er din venn, glider gir deg fart.<\/p><\/div><\/div>

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Dette er en fin universalb\u00f8rste til \u00e5 fjerne restene av glider med, s\u00e5 skiene blir glatte, rene og fine i glidesonen.
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F\u00f8r eller senere m\u00e5 man ty til klister, p\u00e5 noen forhold er det rett og slett bare klister som fungerer. Brukes det riktig, s\u00e5 er det ikke s\u00e5 grisete. Bare ikke v\u00e6r den der personen som ikke fjerner klisteret etter turen\u2026.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nOh, and you\u2019ll want some Swix base cleaner<\/strong> and some fiberlene paper<\/strong> for cleaning up. We are not savages. God tur<\/em>!\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Waxing: the magic formula<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Decades of experience with expeditions, ski production, trial and error and endless collective discussion and dorkery has brought us to a method that works very well for us. Not everyone does it exactly like this. But if you follow the procedure set out below, at least you won\u2019t be doing anything actively wrong!<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Our preferred system in brief<\/h3>\r\n<\/div>\r\n
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1. Put a hard (cold) glide wax in the glide zone as a base. \u201cTop\u201d it with glide wax right for your conditions.\r\n2. Warm up, apply and cork in in a good proper layer of Swix Polar in the grip zone to be your base wax.\r\n3. Apply and cork in the day\u2019s grip wax. Or klister if conditions are klistery.\r\n4. Use mohair or a synthetic\/mohair mix short skin when conditions are difficult, or the hill is steep. Don\u2019t put skins on anything softer than Blue Swix.\r\n5. Put on appropriate glide and grip waxes when the warm, wet snow arrives in the spring.\r\n6. Take a bag with a scraper and some wax options with you \u2013 if conditions change, and you find you have no grip or you\u2019re icing up, you\u2019ll be glad. If all else fails, a skin will get you home.<\/a><\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Waxless skis<\/h3>\r\n<\/div>\r\n
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1. Put a hard (cold) glide wax in the glide zone as a base. \u201cTop\u201d it with glide wax right for your conditions.\r\n2. Put some liquid or spray glide wax into the pattern to prevent icing and to improve your glide.\r\n4. Use mohair or a synthetic\/mohair mix short skin when conditions are difficult, or the hill is steep.\r\n5. Use appropriate glide and grip waxes when the warm, wet snow arrives in the spring.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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On a wax-free ski, you can put glide wax on the entire sole if you want. It serves to reduce icing. The problem, though, is that it’ll be a pain to scrape and brush the wax out from the waxless pattern. You want to get it all out. However, it reduces icing to a certain extent when the entire sole is well saturated with wax.<\/p>\r\nThe easiest thing is to put glide wax on to the glide surfaces of your waxless skis (the un-patterned bit). Then you can use liquid glide wax or skin wax on the pattern and the skins if necessary. Skin wax on your skins stops them from accumulating ice.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

1. Start with a clean ski<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nWhen skis are new from the shop, they\u2019re usually prepped from the factory. This is to stop bases from getting damaged in transport, largely, and to prevent bases from drying out or getting dirty. We recommend doing a comprehensive new-ski prep when you get a new pair. You know where you are; it makes things easier in the years to come. You can repeat the process before each season, or follow\u00a0our recipe of what to do at the end of the season<\/a>.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

G\u00e5 over st\u00e5lkantene<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nOn alpine touring skis and cross-country skis for the backcountry, it\u2019s important that steel edges aren\u2019t too dull. Before grinding them, go over them with a brass brush or gummi stone and remove surface rust. You can sharpen steel edges yourself if you have the tools. If they\u2019re too dull, we recommend having them sharpened on a machine by someone who can do this.\r\n\r\nDull steel edges affect cornering properties and edge grip in hard conditions\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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You really don\u2019t want to find wax from the previous season when you get your skis out on the first snow day of the new one. Clean your bases at the end of the season and preparation will be much easier.<\/em><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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If you discover you skis are covered with old wax, start by getting out the scraper and removing it. Make sure to get it all off. In our experience, Swix\u2019s Citrus base cleaner is pretty good at this. Rub and repeat until you have a naked base. Wipe off with Fiberlene cleaning paper<\/a>.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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If you have new skis, start by scraping off storage wax or factory-applied glide wax with a plexiglass scraper.<\/strong> Scrape the grip zones of your old skis if they have old wax on them. Pay attention to the centre groove.<\/strong><\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Then brush about 15\u201320 times from tip to tail with a medium bronze brush to get all the old glide wax out of the gliding surfaces. <\/strong><\/strong>Be sure to wipe away dust and anything else that remains after you have brushed. The skis should now be free of almost all wax.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Then spray base cleaner along the entire length of the base. <\/strong><\/strong>Let it do its thing for a few minutes before wipe it off with Fiberlene cleaning paper, tip to tail. Wait until the ski cleaner has dried properly before going on.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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2. Glide wax \u2013 the power of wheee!<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nDoing glide wax can actually be pretty good fun in the right circumstances \u2013 coffee, beer, friends over, some good music on\u2026 start plotting routes, day trips and logistics.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nYou need your skis stable and, preferably, clamped. An old ski box with holes for the bindings and the shovel is better than nothing if you know what you\u2019re doing. Keep the iron moving. You don\u2019t want to spend more than five seconds on a single ski. Stay in a single place and you\u2019ll burn the base; get the ski too hot and you can damage it internally. The temperature should be 110\u00b0 for yellow wax and 120\u00b0 for red.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Start by turning on the wax iron. Touch the glide wax block against the iron. Now you can either hold the block to the iron to drip a zig-zag pattern of melted wax in the glide zones, or you can use the block to crayon a layer of warm wax straight on to the base; this can make it easier to iron in.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Let the glide wax harden<\/strong>. You can put the skis out in the cold to make it harden faster. This takes ten minutes at least.<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Scrape out wax from the centre groove.<\/strong> Then scrape excess wax from the bass with a plexiglas scraper, front to back, until you\u2019ve got as much as you can off.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Finally, brush the sole with a medium brush until its shiny and smooth. You can polish the base at the end with a very fine fiberlene pad and the cork if you want to get your bases shiny and pretty.<\/strong><\/strong><\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Thin layers of glide was make less work. It\u2019s easier to put down two layers of thin glide wax in two passes rather than scrape and brush out a thick layer. You also get more wax into the base this way.<\/em><\/p>\r\n

It\u2019s better to use glide wax that\u2019s \u201ctoo cold\u201d for warm conditions than glide wax that\u2019s \u201ctoo warm\u201d for cold conditions \u2013 harder glide waxes don\u2019t slow you down in warm conditions as much as soft glide waxes can slow you down in cold conditions.<\/em><\/p>\r\n

You can put new wax for changing conditions straight on to the wax you have on at a pinch, as long as your bases are not clearly dirty<\/em>.<\/em><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u00c5snes Academy Ekspertpanel<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Instant glide<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nA simpler method, which can easily be used out in the field or on a multi-day trip, is instant glide wax. This is a liquid glide wax you apply to the glide zone and then cork in. These can be bought in most sports shops and usually have an integrated cap and a built-in applicator, rather like a roll-on deodorant.\r\n\r\nLiquid glide waxes have a shorter life than hard wax glide waxes. While they\u2019re not a replacement for hard glide wax, you can take one with you into granular spring snow as a top-up, or for extremely cold days when you just want to protect the sole a little…\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Here\u2019s a good example of a 100% PFC-free and biodegradable wax for bases and impregnating skins.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Grip zone<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Also known as the wax pocket. This is where your grip wax goes. You don\u2019t want to get glide wax in this area \u2013 grip wax doesn\u2019t adhere to glide wax. It\u2019ll come straight off.<\/p>\r\n

There\u2019s nothing stopping you from gently rubbing fine-grit sandpaper on the grip zone before you apply base wax, if you like. This is common for racing skiers to do, anyway. You may prefer a simpler approach, and there\u2019s nothing wrong with that.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Glide zone<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

The front and rear thirds of your ski bases: the smooth parts of the sole that bear your weight in the glide phase of the classic ski motion.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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3. Base wax<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nYour choice. Racing folks like purpose-made base binder to bind their grip wax. Here, we prefer a hard grip wax like Swix Polar to do that job. Most of us only need to put base wax on once or twice the entire season. Even so it\u2019s not necessarily the end of the world if you go entirely without \u2013 it just means stopping more often to reapply grip wax.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Before you apply the base binder to your wax pocket, gently rub the grip zone with fine sandpaper (100 or 120 grit). Your base wax wax will adhere better, and this your grip wax will too. It ends up being less work out in the wilds.<\/em><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u00c5snes Academy Expert Panel<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nThe good news is that as long as you do the priming properly, you don’t need to apply base wax every time you go out for a tour<\/strong>.\r\n\r\nRegardless of which option you choose, it must be applied with heat. Apply a thin layer, let it harden, and cork it in. You can even use a cool iron if you like. Once this is done, let everything harden and cool down for 5\u201310 minutes.\r\n\r\nThat\u2019s it done for the whole season<\/strong>! Not that much work, really. After this, it\u2019s just scraping and putting on the day\u2019s grip.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

4. Grip Wax<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nGrip wax goes on according to the conditions of the day: the thermometer and the age of the snow. Blue Swix on colder days; Red Swix on warmer days. How much, length-wise, and how many layers you put it on, depend on how far you\u2019re going and how much you think the snow\u2019s going to rub it off.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nThe key to getting it right is simple:\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Begin with something too cold and hard. Then apply something appropriate to the temperature<\/strong>. Start with a colder wax to bind and follow it up with a warmer wax. Experiment; find out what you like. The lower the temperature on the tin, the colder it can go<\/strong>. Swix Polar makes a great \u201cbase wax\u201d being the coldest of them all<\/em>.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\u00c5snes Academy Ekspertpanel<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nIf you have old wax on your skis, just cork it to reinvigorate it and spread it uniformly again. Start from there. If the weather\u2019s become milder, put on the wax of the day. If it\u2019s colder, scrape it off: wax that\u2019s too soft can absorb water melted through friction and freeze into ice. No one likes ice stilts.\r\n\r\nAdd two thin layers of wax. Cork towards the centre from each side.\r\n\r\nFinally, add a third, final, layer that you don\u2019t cork in too much.\r\n\r\nOne of the most important things to remember is that\u00a0it\u2019s important to keep your layers of wax or klister thin<\/strong>.\r\n\r\nYou can apply different kinds of grip wax in several layers, too \u2013 just always start with the coldest, hardest, wax at the bottom<\/strong>.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

5. Klister<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nFinally we turn our attention to klister<\/strong> [ominous organ music].\r\n\r\nAll we can say is that despite its reputation, klister can be absolutely amazing. We can ski under a perfect blue May ski, in rotten snow, with perfect grip and wonderful glide, without icing up.\u00a0Even the wax experts from the Norwegian national team love klister.\r\n\r\nKlisters come in tubes and sprays. Although sprays may seem tempting, and are probably the easiest to use, we would recommend going for tube klisters. They give the best results.\r\nMaybe give your skis a little gentle sanding before putting klister on if you can. Apply it in a herringbone pattern in a thin layer on the grip zone. Rub it in well \u2013 thumb or scraper first, and then a cork.\r\n\r\nWhen using universal klisters, apply colder klisters first.<\/strong>\u00a0Thin layers are the rule here, too. Let each layer harden for 5\u20137 minutes before you add another. Also remember that klister\u2019s hard work in the cold \u2013 room temperature is best. Keep the tube in your inner pocket\r\n\r\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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