{"id":6709,"date":"2022-09-20T08:14:35","date_gmt":"2022-09-20T08:14:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/asnes-academy.com\/uncategorized\/how-to-use-asnes-short-skins\/"},"modified":"2022-12-21T21:08:30","modified_gmt":"2022-12-21T21:08:30","slug":"how-to-use-asnes-short-skins","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/asnes-academy.com\/en\/tips-and-tricks\/how-to-use-asnes-short-skins\/","title":{"rendered":"How to use \u00c5snes short skins"},"content":{"rendered":"\r\n

What is a short skin?<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\u00c5snes, among others, first experimented with the short skin in the \u201870s and \u201880s. The idea was to create a skin providing both good grip in all conditions and sufficient glide when skiing. The length of the short skin was standardized to be slightly longer than the size of an average wax pocket on cross-country skis built for the mountains (fjellski, in Norwegian). Ours are intentionally a little long, allowing you to shorten it yourself according to your own weight, technique and preference.\r\n\r\nUnlike grip wax, skins aren\u2019t temperature-sensitive. This makes for a very versatile and dependable solution, regardless of weather and conditions. Think of short skins as performing as a universal wax functioning in basically all conditions.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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\u00c5snes X-Skin Mohair short skin with Skinprotector\u00ae<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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When to use short skins<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nX-Skins are excellent for cross-county skiing in the backcountry. They\u2019re so useful and functional, and require such little maintenance, that they amount to standard equipment; all \u00c5snes BC skis should come with a pair.\r\n\r\nA short skin offers a solid grip under the ski regardless of the conditions. With the skin in the grip zone, glide isn\u2019t significantly impaired. Short skins especially excel in deep snow, on long tours where waxing is difficult, for pulling a pulk, or if you just want a simple solution for guaranteed grip, regardless of conditions. Some choose to attach them permanently under the ski, especially on expeditions.\u00a0You can put them on top of hard grip wax without damaging the adhesive.\r\n\r\nThey can also give some security to those who want a little resistance on difficult descents. The \u00c5snes short skin has become the industry standard. The insertion and attachment system have been tested, to literal destruction, over years in some of the world\u2019s most inhospitable places.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Short skin or long skin?<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nYou should have a short skin or two with you no matter where you go in the mountains. If your wax fails, or you want to do some climbing, they save so much sweat. And if you want grip without waxing your skis, they\u2019re simply convenient.\r\n\r\nLong skins provide more resistance and more grip. That\u2019s useful for the steeps. But they\u2019re not recommended for flatter terrain apart from in special situations.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n
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A guide to functional skins<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nSkins are a wonderful tool for opening the door to experiences in nature. There are just a couple of things you can do to keep them performing as they should. Here\u2019s what every skin-owner should know.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

1.\u00a0Keep the adhesive clean and dry<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nOne of the most important rules for keeping skins happy is to keep the glue away from dust, dirt, vegetation, stones, dog hair, carpets, and anything else that can get stuck in there.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

2. Remove ice and snow from the glue \u2013 they\u2019ll stick<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nOut in the mountains, snow and ice get on to the glue. It\u2019s just the way it goes. You can usually just brush it off with a glove. If there\u2019s a lot, you can scrape the back of the skin over a steel edge. You can also just fold them up and put them in an inside pocket. The ice and snow melt, the glue warms up and the skin might dry a little. Then it\u2019ll stick.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

3. Beating the cold<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nWhen it\u2019s really cold, the skin gets cold too. This means a stiffer skin and stiffer glue \u2013 maybe even a skin that doesn\u2019t want to stick to the ski. When this happens, warm the skin with body heat under your jacket. On long days below -15\u00b0 or thereabouts, stick the skin into your inner pocket when you\u2019re not using it.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

4. Good routines<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nGlue tends to fail at the back of the skin first, sometimes at the front by the attachment. This is where snow, ice, water and dirt are most likely to get into the glue. Check your skins regularly; remove vegetation and other obvious stuck in the glue; store the skin in an inner pocket if necessary. Also bring a stick of skin wax to prevent the skin from absorbing moisture. Maybe even a tube of skin glue for spot-repairs in the field if necessary.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

5. Emergency solutions<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nIf things really go south, a ski strap, gaffa tape or sports tape<\/a> can save the day. Or at least give you enough to get out of the mountains. But we repeat: routines!\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

6. A dry skin is a happy skin<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nWet snow exists. In the spring, it\u2019s a real hazard. This can lead to very damp skins. These are perfect conditions for skins becoming ice-magnets. Especially if temperatures fluctuate.\r\nAt this point, enter skin wax. You should ALWAYS have some skin wax in your pocket; it can save the day! The other thing you can do is stick glide wax on your skins in almost the same way you would with your glide zones. The wax protects from wear; it stops moisture getting in; it improves glide.\r\n\r\nBetween uses (and out in the field) skins can dry and warm up in your inner pocket.\r\n\r\nAgain, good routines and preparations are key here. Give you skin a good waxing<\/a> before you set out, or at the start of the season!\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

7. Icing? No thanks<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nOK, so \u2013\u00a0you forgot to wax and your skins are covered in ice. Well, no one\u2019s perfect.\u00a0All is not lost.\r\n\r\nFirst, scrape away what you can using a steel edge, a wax scraper, or whatever you have to hand. One of us has used the old iPhone 5 with the sharp sides before. Leave the skins on.\r\n\r\nTry to scrape from the front tip all the way back to the rear tip. You\u2019ll probably be able to squeeze and scrape enough out.\u00a0If it\u2019s sunny, you can put the skin in the sun with the problem side facing the sun. They might dry out a little when you have your sandwiches.\r\n\r\nFinally, you should apply skin wax \u2013 and LOTS of it. If you don\u2019t have any to hand, use what you have. Vaseline. Sunscreen. Silicone. Cooking oil. When you clean it off, don\u2019t spray base cleaner on to the skin \u2013 use a rag.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

8. Always dry skins \u2013 at room temperature!<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nAll wet equipment should be unpacked and dried. This is particularly important for skins, because, as we say in Point 6, a dry skin is a happy skin. However, skins should NOT be exposed to direct heat<\/strong>. Don\u2019t put them on heated floors, or near a stove. Hang them on a drying line at normal room temperature.\r\n\r\nWhen dry, store them somewhere cool, away from sunlight. A cellar, a garage \u2013 somewhere like that.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

9. Proper storage between use<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nMost of us store our skins stuck glue-to-glue. But when skins are to be stored for a long period, over the summer for example, it may be good to use a mesh skin-protector between them. Just to be safe.\r\n\r\nAgain, store your dry skins somewhere cool, away from sunlight. In the cellar or in the shed.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

10. Re-glue your skins when necessary<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nSooner or later, glue wears out. It ages; it\u2019s had enough of snow and fingers and grip wax and being dried above a wood-burning stove in huts. This doesn\u2019t mean that the skin\u2019s finished, though: skins get better and better with use. Re-gluing a skin takes a little time from your afternoon, but there are several methods now. And glue\u2019s much cheaper than a pair of mature skins with stories to tell.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Choices, choices<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Skins come and different materials. These have different strengths, weaknesses and uses. It\u2019s pretty simple \u2013 but an equally simple overview might help if you need to know which ski-wig is the one for you. Here is that overview.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Mohair, nylon or mix?<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nHere\u2019s a brief summary of the advantages, disadvantages and uses of different skin materials.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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In short, mohair glides better than nylon, and vice versa.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Nylon gives better grip than mohair, and vice versa.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Nylon\u2019s a reasonable choice if you\u2019re going to put a lot of wear on you skins, if you\u2019re going on an expedition, or if you really want resistance going downhill. When it comes to wear and grip, nylon excels.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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If your priority is good glide, choose mohair. These skin excel in loose snow and on cold tracks.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Mixed material skins use a combination of mohair and nylon, where the mixing ratio is usually 60\u201370% mohair and 30\u00b740% nylon. This gives a good compromise between robustness and good glide.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Our recommendation is a Mix or a Mohair skin as your primary skin, preferably in 45mm width for most skis. Then you can later buy a durable Nylon or a faster Race skin later if you need.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

You should also buy a narrower skin and trim it for the best possible glide if you mainly use short skins rather than wax. A combination of 2\u20133 skins at different widths gives an extremely versatile, bombproof, system on longer trips.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Mohair<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Good glide; superior on cold tracks<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Mohair skins are made from natural fibres. These give good glide and shine when it\u2019s cold and dry. Our Mohair and Race skins glide really nicely. On the other hand, the natural fibres absorb a little more moisture and wear a little faster than synthetic fibres do. We recommend skin wax or some kind of impregnation<\/a>\u00a0on mohair skins. The Race skin is also made of 100% mohair, but has shorter fibres, meaning less resistance in the glide phase. The disadvantge is that it\u2019s no resistant to wear.<\/p>\r\n

Lifetime: approx. 80,000m<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Nylon<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Hard as nails, does not absorb moisture<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

The nylon skin is, of course, made of synthetic fibres. It\u2019s wear resistant and absorbs less moisture. Skins like these are suitable for hard use and damp conditions. Nylon skins also provide the best grip you can have in the vast majority of conditions. They don\u2019t glide as well, though.<\/p>\r\n

Lifetime: approx. 150,000 m<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Mix<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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A good compromise \u2013 all-rounder<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Mixed-fibre skins are good. The most common mix is some 70% mohair and 30% nylon. These skins often combine the best of both qualities with the mohair guaranteeing glide and the nylon offering increased wear resistance and less water absorption.<\/p>\r\n

Lifetime: Approx. 120,000m<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Bredde p\u00e5 fell?<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nDealing with different conditions and purposes, it\u2019s a nice solution to use skins of different widths<\/strong>. You can, for example, combine a standard 45mm mix skin for universal use and a narrower, shorter, 30mm mohair skin for those situations where glide is a priority<\/strong> \u2013 crossing a wide area, using ski tracks, or long flat sections. A wider skin, maybe in a material offering material grip, is excellent if you\u2019re moving in varying terrain or want maximum grip on downhill slopes.\r\n\r\nCombining skins of different lengths and widths provides a very safe and flexible system on longer trips.\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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HOT TIP<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

On longer tours, when, for example, I have to cross the Hardangervidda to test skis over several days, I usually take several different skins with me. The conditions will vary over several days, so then I also swap between different skins and wax. My favourite system is the following:<\/em><\/p>\r\n

X-Skin Race 40mm, cut very short \u2013 for flat sections, snowmobile trails and when I want maximum glide.<\/em><\/p>\r\n

X-Skin 45mm Mohair, cut approximately at the heel \u2013for all-round use, rolling terrain and some uphills. This is an excellent all-rounder.<\/em><\/p>\r\n

X-Skin Mohair 58mm \u2013 for the steeps, with light packing.<\/em><\/p>\r\n

If I’m pulling a pulk, I always have a pair of 45mm Mohair long skins with me, just to be safe \u2013 and for the long uphills.<\/em><\/p>\r\n

Otherwise, I always have some Red and Blue Swix with me, to be on the safe side. If the conditions are flat and I’m going to ski 10km straight, then Blue Swix is a dream<\/em>!<\/em><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n

Crister N\u00e6ss\r\n\u00c5snes fixture, ski-guide and gear-nerd<\/em><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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Which width for which use?<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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30 and 35mm<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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These skins are primarily chosen for narrower skis, 30\u201350mm at the wais<\/strong>t. The main focus with such a narrow skin is of course low friction and good glide \u2013preferably on trails and flat terrain. They work nicely with slightly wider skis, too, in some conditions even functioning as serious wax replacement, albeit at the expense of climbing properties.<\/strong><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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45mm<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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The most common width. This skin\u2019s a universal solution on all our cross-country skis<\/strong> built for the backcountry \u2013 skis with a waist of 50-70mm<\/strong>, usually good all-round fjellski (as we call these skis in Norway).<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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58-60mm<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

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The widest short skin for fjellski. Often used on wider and more downhill-oritented skis<\/strong>. With this skin on the skis it was designed for, good grip is assured. This is the skin for skis with a waist of 60\u201370mm.<\/strong><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

My skin has fallen off<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nSkins can fail. But you can un-fail them. Here\u2019s how.\r\n\r\nSometimes the skin can come off when you\u2019re hiking. This usually happens on steep slopes, following very large temperature fluctuations, or because you\u2019ve have got snow or water between the base and the glue.\r\n\r\nTo fix this, try this:\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Dry the skin \u2013 either indoors at room temperature, on the body, or elsewhere.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Make sure the adhesive is free of dirt, snow, ice and water.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Heat the skin, either inside your jacket, in your hand, or indoors; the glue should become sticky again.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Use one of your spare skins. Taking a couple of skins out on a tour is always a good idea.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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In the worst case, improvise with tape or a (very tight) strap until you get back to the tent or cabin.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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Apply new glue to tired skins to give the a new lease of life.<\/span><\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n

Customising skins<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nThere are several different ways of adapting skins to your personal preferences. For a start, you can trim the skin for better glide<\/strong>.\r\n\r\nAll short skins from \u00c5snes come in a standard length of 65cm. For lighter skiers or skiers with shorter skis, this is often too long. The result\u2019s more resistance \u2013 and worse glide<\/strong>.\r\n\r\nHere\u2019s how it\u2019s done:\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
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We recommend shortening the skin if you\u2019re glide\u2019s not what you want. Start by trimming to the heel of the binding. If you want to be on the safe side, you can trim 1cm at a time, test, and gradually cut the skin as short as you need.<\/em><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/div>\r\n<\/section>\r\n\r\n\r\n

\"\"<\/figure>\r\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Wondering how to use \u00c5snes short skins? Not sure what these skins are good for and what the point is? Or wondering how to install a short skin? How to customize them? Whatever it is, here are the answers.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":4460,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[45],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6709","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tips-and-tricks"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nHow to use \u00c5snes short skins - \u00c5snes Academy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/asnes-academy.com\/en\/tips-and-tricks\/how-to-use-asnes-short-skins\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"How to use \u00c5snes short skins - \u00c5snes Academy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Wondering how to use \u00c5snes short skins? 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Not sure what these skins are good for and what the point is? Or wondering how to install a short skin? How to customize them? 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