“Dogs don’t get cold, right?”

Some dogs have a reputation for being almost indestructible. Polar dogs, as we call them in Norway, and dogs bred to live outdoors all year, can withstand a lot. But this is because they have a warm undercoat and thick fur on top of that. Their physique and fur are made for survival in the cold. These breed have much more hair on their ears, belly, testicles and paws. An Alaskan Malamute or a Siberian Husky, for example, seem to thrive in the cold. Other dogs, however, aren’t so lucky. Most dogs don’t have such fur; many lack their ancestral, insulating undercoat altogether. Even apparently robust dogs may not have a proper undercoat, and can therefore be susceptible to freezing.

Dogs are also a bit like us. There are big individual differences between them. Their capacity to handle the cold depends not only on the physique but on what they’re used to. You have to be extra careful if your dog’s sick (especially if their illness is respiratory). It’s particularly difficult for sick dogs to keep warm in winter. And auppies, old, small, or short-haired dogs are also susceptible to freezing.

General advice in the cold

Don’t let your dog sit inactive in the cold (in a car, leashed, etc.)
Start your tour with dog clothes, even in a high-intensity tour
Keep your dog in motioun
Be sure to protect especially exposed areas (see below)
Use paw protection if you walk in crust, or if you outside for extended periods
Protect against snow, rain, wind or injury with a dog jacket.
Dry your dog and their paws when they get wet
Check the temperature and colour of exposed areas frequently
Never leave your dog in a car on a cold winter’s day
Make sure your dog is fed properly and nutritiously
Groom your dog; check its condition daily
Take a warm blanket or sleeping bag with you – make sure you can keep your dog warm and dry

Read also: caring for dogs outdoors

Research agrees that planning is key if your dog’s going to thrive. This also applies when adapting to new environments and weather conditions. Ideally your dog should be snug in the cabin or at home by the fire when it’s cold outside. But if we’re going to take the dog out into the cold, it’s also our responsibility to ensure it’s well protected.

Read all the tips here!

Better safe than sorry

Don’t be afraid to dress your dog up, or to take the cold seriously on its behalf. It’s just nonsense that we “humanize” dogs by dressing them for the cold. It just shows you’re civilised enough to take dog management seriously – you take care of your dog seriously.

The degree to which you should dress your dog, and when, varies from dog to dog (and breed to breed). Maybe as a general rule, when the temperature drops below -10° give your dog a blanket or jacket, even if they’re active – but many breeds should need clothes long before it gets that cold.

A ski suit (“body condom”) is a good idea in the snow. Tøys’s fur is a snow-magnet, so even if it doesn’t provide much warmth, it prevents ice and snowballs gathering in the fur. Also, he looks like Superman in it. Tøys skis a lot with his dad, so the suit prevents him scraping his wee balls when he runs and/or jumps in the snow.

Photo: @Toysworkingspaniel / Crister Næss

The blanket

Clothes for dogs are popular. You can find a large selection in online stores and pet stores. But practicality should trump everything. The point of a blanket is that it should provide warmth in the same way that a jacket does for us humans. It doesn’t have to look “cute”.

Many owners believe that their dog will be well protected in a sweet knitted suit. We’d rather recommend going for something that can repel rain, wind, snow and retain heat. A wet blanket against the body only makes things worse. Steer clear of cotton! Wool is excellent. Puffa jackets can be good. There are many good options to be had.

A blanket does the job when the temperature drops below freezing or when the dog’s dampt. Tøys loves his wool blanket! It’s a bit like a mid-layer´ or down jacket for us humans.

Photo: @Toysworkingspaniel / Crister Næss

Tips for rest periods on cold days

Give your dog something to sit or lie on.
Give your dog something to wear, even if it’s a short break.
Give your dog some high-energy snacks, maybe something with some volume to fill the stomach. Dogs burn more energy in the cold.
Start gently after the breaklitt roligere etter pausen, maybe still dressed. Muscles and joints may have cooled down.

Paw socks

We often forget about paws – which is pretty foolish, because this is one of the places where dogs can quickly get frostbite.

Ice, snow and frost can be both uncomfortable and, at worst, harmful to the paws. Humidity and crust , in combination, can lead to ugly wounds, infection, inflammation and wet eczema. Use paw ointment with a high fat content to prevent icing and injury. The ointment is applied to the paws before you set off to prevent ice building up, sore skin, and the pays drying out or cracking.

For long-haired breeds, it’s a good idea to trim excess fur from the paws to prevent clumps of snow from gathering. Tøys over here, for example, has to have this done.

Dry the paws when you get inside. Check carefully between each individual toe and the paw itself. Also remember to check the claw and the pad sitting further up on the front legs. If the fur between the toes is discoloured compared to the rest of the paw, it can be an early sign of irritation. Contact a veterinarian to prevent infection.

Rockesokk are extremely cool. Ask Tøys!

Photo: @Toysworkingspaniel / Crister Næss

Dogs especially vulnerable to the cold

Puppies
Elder dogs
Small dogs (these dogs have a large surface area in relation to the bodyweight and therefore lose more heat)
Dogs with chronic illnesses and reduced circulation (heart problems, kidney issues, thyroid issues, skin problems, etc.)
Dogs with thin fur
Thin dogs
Dogs with no undercoat
Dogs that aren’t used to being outside a lot

Vulnerable areas

Ears
Testicles
Nipples
Tip of the tail
Belly
Paws