“Dogs don’t get cold, right?”
Some dogs have a reputation for being almost indestructible. Polar dogs, as we call them in Norway, and dogs bred to live outdoors all year, can withstand a lot. But this is because they have a warm undercoat and thick fur on top of that. Their physique and fur are made for survival in the cold. These breed have much more hair on their ears, belly, testicles and paws. An Alaskan Malamute or a Siberian Husky, for example, seem to thrive in the cold. Other dogs, however, aren’t so lucky. Most dogs don’t have such fur; many lack their ancestral, insulating undercoat altogether. Even apparently robust dogs may not have a proper undercoat, and can therefore be susceptible to freezing.
Dogs are also a bit like us. There are big individual differences between them. Their capacity to handle the cold depends not only on the physique but on what they’re used to. You have to be extra careful if your dog’s sick (especially if their illness is respiratory). It’s particularly difficult for sick dogs to keep warm in winter. And auppies, old, small, or short-haired dogs are also susceptible to freezing.
General advice in the cold
Read also: caring for dogs outdoors
Research agrees that planning is key if your dog’s going to thrive. This also applies when adapting to new environments and weather conditions. Ideally your dog should be snug in the cabin or at home by the fire when it’s cold outside. But if we’re going to take the dog out into the cold, it’s also our responsibility to ensure it’s well protected.

Better safe than sorry
Don’t be afraid to dress your dog up, or to take the cold seriously on its behalf. It’s just nonsense that we “humanize” dogs by dressing them for the cold. It just shows you’re civilised enough to take dog management seriously – you take care of your dog seriously.
The degree to which you should dress your dog, and when, varies from dog to dog (and breed to breed). Maybe as a general rule, when the temperature drops below -10° give your dog a blanket or jacket, even if they’re active – but many breeds should need clothes long before it gets that cold.

A ski suit (“body condom”) is a good idea in the snow. Tøys’s fur is a snow-magnet, so even if it doesn’t provide much warmth, it prevents ice and snowballs gathering in the fur. Also, he looks like Superman in it. Tøys skis a lot with his dad, so the suit prevents him scraping his wee balls when he runs and/or jumps in the snow.
Photo: @Toysworkingspaniel / Crister Næss
The blanket
Clothes for dogs are popular. You can find a large selection in online stores and pet stores. But practicality should trump everything. The point of a blanket is that it should provide warmth in the same way that a jacket does for us humans. It doesn’t have to look “cute”.
Many owners believe that their dog will be well protected in a sweet knitted suit. We’d rather recommend going for something that can repel rain, wind, snow and retain heat. A wet blanket against the body only makes things worse. Steer clear of cotton! Wool is excellent. Puffa jackets can be good. There are many good options to be had.

A blanket does the job when the temperature drops below freezing or when the dog’s dampt. Tøys loves his wool blanket! It’s a bit like a mid-layer´ or down jacket for us humans.
Photo: @Toysworkingspaniel / Crister Næss
Tips for rest periods on cold days
Paw socks
We often forget about paws – which is pretty foolish, because this is one of the places where dogs can quickly get frostbite.
Ice, snow and frost can be both uncomfortable and, at worst, harmful to the paws. Humidity and crust , in combination, can lead to ugly wounds, infection, inflammation and wet eczema. Use paw ointment with a high fat content to prevent icing and injury. The ointment is applied to the paws before you set off to prevent ice building up, sore skin, and the pays drying out or cracking.
For long-haired breeds, it’s a good idea to trim excess fur from the paws to prevent clumps of snow from gathering. Tøys over here, for example, has to have this done.
Dry the paws when you get inside. Check carefully between each individual toe and the paw itself. Also remember to check the claw and the pad sitting further up on the front legs. If the fur between the toes is discoloured compared to the rest of the paw, it can be an early sign of irritation. Contact a veterinarian to prevent infection.

Rockesokk are extremely cool. Ask Tøys!
Photo: @Toysworkingspaniel / Crister Næss
Dogs especially vulnerable to the cold
Vulnerable areas

How to feed a hunting dog
Correct nutrition is the alpha and omega for a healthy, strong and happy hunting dog performing to its limits day after day in the mountains. A well-trained hunting dog can quickly cover more than 60 km in hilly terrain, marshes and woods. So if you’re out for a number of days, feeding is everything.

Menstruating on skis
Periods. Because we menstruate in winter too. Stomach cramps while overnighting in the wild aren’t often discussed – which means they ought to be. So curl up with some ibuprofen and a glass of water for some good tips for menstruating in the winter mountains.

Dressing for adventure: what to wear in the wild
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The NFSA guidance for outdoor dogs
The Norwegian Food Safety Authority (NFSA)’s rules for keeping dogs outdoors, and for interacting with dogs, is useful for adults and children alike.

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